Jackson Tailors - tailors suit makati
This is the last in our series about our three menswear formals. Today we will be talking about the most formal of all dress codes.
The white tie, tail coat.
Used only in royal affairs, state dinners and formal balls.
This time we prohibit any altercations to this evening wear.
It is a white tie dress code that although may be constricting, with the proper tailor, can be quite comfortable and elegant.
As mentioned before the tailcoat is distinct from the morning suit primarily due to its vents. A tailcoat is made with worsted wool and silk lapels and only peak lapels.
Covered buttons are a must, made from the same wool of your coat.
The tailcoat is derived from its design of the coat's tail.
The center vent rises up to the waist just like a morning coat. But has a split in the middle of the coat's skirt.
Turning it into two "tails". Hence the nicknames claw-hammer tailcoat and swallow tailcoat.
It is actually a very sexy design because it brings the eye straight to the waist.
Yes my eyes are up here.
From the waist it extends down to just above the bend of the knee combining a meticulous detailing of a straight line with a gentle curve at the end.
Very precise that only a bespoke tailor in the Philippines can achieve.
We only wear a Marcella shirt or commonly known as the Pique shirt. It is the one with the stiff front shirt with single cuff and detachable collar.
Nowadays the Pique is associated with honey comb. I don't really know why since the Dress shirt is a weave whilst the casual polo pique is a knit.
Watch out for our series on shirts and dress shirts.
For now we leave it at that so we can move on to the trousers.
The paired trousers should always have a double gallon or braiding at the sides and it should be high waisted. We of course use the same wool fabric.
The ensemble must always be donned with a Marcella waistcoat. Either double breasted or single breasted cut at an appropriate length.
No compromise and No cummerbunds.
It is also a must to use silk grosgrain bow tie. Made with the same white Marcella fabric of the waistcoat and shirt.
And lastly and more complicatedly, the court shoes or the opera pumps. Have one made because it is unheard of in Manila ready made shoes.
Bespoke all the way. From the coat to the socks which should be silk and white.
Rarely do you attend white tie events and it is quite an honor to be invited to one. Don't you think the event requires you to be more none o'rdinaire
Just like your Boutonniere should not be a fake. We recommend fashioning yourself with a carnation.
Basically wear what we wrote and you are good to go.
Luckily though being Pinoys, we can skip all that and just wear a barong. Because the Mighty barong is good for both black and white tie events.
Subscribe to our youtube channel and like us on facebook.